Fabric Range

Fabrics we use and recommend:

At Advani Custom Tailors you have a choice of 800 selected superior-quality imported fabrics for custom tailoring suits and shirts.

We understand your need for the perfect custom made shirt that fits and feels right. To help achieve your custom look, you should become aware of the various fabric types, textures and styles.

Yarn size, Yarn count, Yarn number, Cotton count

They all mean the same thing and are a measure of the fineness (thinness) of cotton. Typically, it is measured using the English count method, which measures the number of hanks (840 yards) in a pound of the cotton. The higher the number, the finer the cotton. For instance, with 160's or 200's a very high quality cotton. If the number is 150, that means that a pound of the thread would measure 126,000 yards (150 x 840). 200's are the finest cottons. Blue jeans are made with 13's and 20's. The grading system for cottons (e.g., 80's, 150's, etc.) is completely different from that used for wools (e.g., Super 100's, Super 150's) even though the numeric values are close.

Single ply or Two ply

Yarn made by twisting two cotton strands is called two-ply cotton. Yarn that is simply a single strand of cotton is single-ply, or singles. Two-ply is generally better as it is smoother, stronger, and more uniform than singles. It is important to be sure that it is two-ply in both directions (weft and warp). Typically, singles will be marked with the letter s, such as 100's. A two-ply yarn will be designated with a 2 after the yarn size, e.g., 100/2 means that a 50-weight yarn is being made with two 100's. Often though, one will say the cotton is two-ply 100's, which is the same as 100/2.

Length of Cotton

Egyptian, Sea Island and Pima are ELS (extra-long staple) cottons that range from 1 3/8 inches to 2 1/2 inches. They are all derived from the seed gossypium barbadense. The greater the length of the cotton, the smoother and more comfortable the fabric feels. Egyptian Giza and Sea Island cottons are considered the best, but in most cases Sea Island does not truly come from the West Indies, but rather is a generic name used for the g. barbadense seed. An Egyptian extra-long staple 60's cotton will feel better than long-staple 80's.

Sea Island Cotton

"Sea Island Cotton" is a generic term for fine shirt fabric/fine cotton. It's now the trademark of Japanese company (West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association) Actual Sea Island cotton - cotton actually grown in the West Indies is 100s/2-ply.