Shirts

How Tight to knot your tie, when your shirt collar is just right, where to put a monogram, and more.

Tip at The Waist

The point should just touch the waistband of your suit trousers, assuming, of course, that your waistband is properly on or just above your hipbone.

Dimple in The Middle

Just one dimple. In the middle, secured with a pinch. Edges that are curled forward are sloppy. Practice until it's right.

Tie It Tight

When tied, the knot should sit high under the collar, so that practically no material can be seen above the knot between the collar edges.

The Tie Clip

Designed to keep your tie in place, the tie clip should slide in from the wearer's right to grip both the tie and the placket of your shirt around the middle of the

Know Your Neck Size

The collar fits when you can just slip your index and middle fingers side by side snugly between your collar and neck. Any tighter and you risk discomfort.

Stick Letters Here

Stick a monogram anywhere you like. The most classic location is directly below the middle of the breast pocket. Visible but not obtrusive.

THE GLOSSARY OF SHIRT TERMS

Collar Stays

Strips of plastic inserted under the shirt collar to give the collar points body.

Oxford

A type of shirt cotton that employs a thick and a thin thread in the weave, giving a textured look, as used in the classic Brooks Brothers button-down.

Placket

The strengthening strip of cloth running from collar to hem of a shirt that includes the buttonholes.

Single-Needle Stitching

Process whereby a single row of stitches is used on shirt side seams at a time-two passes are necessary for each side seam-rather than cheaper, inferior double-needle stitching.

Two-Fold

Two cotton threads twisted together into a yarn to make a dense, luxurious shirting.